brake upgrades

[66gtk]

Are the stoptech and/or powerslot (I think they are the same thing) slotted rotors any good for the Mustangs? Am I losing any real performance gain compared to the stock OEM rotors? I'd actually like to keep the look of the OEM (non slotted/driilled), but not if it costs me considerable performance.

I'm also considering the Hawk HPS pads - this will be for street use, so I'm concerned about reports of bad dusting? Still, many report these to be awesome. Anybody use them here? Other recommendations for a solid street pad?

I'm also considering upgrading the brake lines to the FRRP Boss 302 upgraded versions. I was going to go with SS, but I read that those tend to fail quickly compared to rubber even though they work better when they are doing what they are supposed to do.

[HELLFYR]

The only stainless steel lines i've seen fail are those allowed to rub on suspension components. Otherwise they last ... well... I've never had to change a set out... ever.

As for brakes, HPS pads dusted quite a bit for me (no where near the HP+... but they are dusty compared to stock), but that was on a set of slotted rotors which cut them up quick. It's a trade off really. More stopping power is going to mean more brake dust.

Personally, I run Baer Slotted rotors up front with EBC Yellow pads (that's a race pad)... they also make the EBC Red which dust FAR less and have very good street manners. The advantage I've found with the EBC products is ZERO noise and they bed in very cleanly. Hawks tend to squeal and you typically have to run through the bedding procedure 3 or 4 times if not swapping the rotors at the same time. For this reason I adopted the practice of lightly hand SANDING my rotors (120 grit - garnett paper... followed by thoroughly spraying down with brake cleaner) to clear off the old pad compound prior to installing the new. It works great. Don't need to grind hard, just rub it into the surface in several different directions to scuff everything thoroughly. Be sure to clear ALL the sanding debris when done.

I run slotted and drilled rotors in the rear (don't remember the brand... it was off Ebay) with stock FMS pads. I tried various other rear pads, and they made ZERO difference. The rear simply doesn't see anywhere near the heat of the fronts so the drilled rotors work nicely there.

Bedding rear brakes really isn't necessary, but if you want to, get the car travelling slowly and use the E-Brake with progressively stronger pull for 5 or 6 stops. That's more than enough.

Hope it helps. That comes from many many years of brake experimentation.

Rod


I should add... make sure to bleed your brakes following a pad/rotor change... it just makes for a nice firm pedal.

[66gtk]

Thanks Rod - After considering all this for a while, I think I'm going to go with a premium street ceramic pad. low noise, low dust - better than OEM stopping power. As for rotors, I have new stock take-offs. I might as well run them. DOT 4 brake fluid?

[sonicx]

DOT 4 brake fluid?

I use this and only this:

https://www.irvansmith.com/scart/brake-fluid-hi-temp-case-of-6-p-1015.html?utm_source=googprod&utm_term=IS5-290-0632-6PK&gclid=CJnZ8dKPxbkCFcxAMgodFy4AAQ

It is not any more substantial amount of money for the "good stuff", so why not go race quality?

[Dazed1]

I have the Hawk Slotted rotors and the Hawk HPS pads.. Front and rear for both. Definitly stops better than stock HOWEVER.... The HPS pads Squeal like a stuck pig! This is after bedding, two Auto Crosses and over 300 miles.... At $90 for Fronts and $60 for rears I wouldn't recommend them. Plus the nice retainers like to pop off which is my guess as to why they are still squealing. I did pull them and shot the backs with Disk Brake quiteing spray which worked for all of 50 miles..lol....

Mike

[HELLFYR]

Brake fluid depends on what you want to do with the car.
If you are just street driving it, drag racing, or even auto-crossing, find out what is stock for your car and use it.
If you are going to road-course the car, UPGRADE to something like Amsoil HiTemp or ATE Super Blue (if you can get it... rumor has it that because of its environmentally unfriendly nature, they may quit selling this stateside).

I'll actually go back and forth between those 2 products (similar specs) so that I can easily tell when I have completed a system flush. The fluid goes entirely to BLUE from amber or entirely AMBER from blue depending on what is currently in there.

Racing the car this is a one a year thing (sometimes more often if something doesn't "feel" just right).

Rod

[HELLFYR]

Oh, I should add... when bleeding on newer cars with ABS modules, DO NOT ... EVER ... let the brake fluid sink below the master cylinder port points. It goes VERY quickly from their to the ABS module. If you get air in the ABS module... good luck, without a pressure bleed it will be next to impossible to get out (some get lucky with a gravity bleed and that works out the air)... easier to just avoid the issue.

Normal bleeding procedure, but after every 2 pump/pump/push processes (dirty minds... cut it out) recheck the resevoir fluid level and top it off. Like I said, do NOT let the resevoir run dry during this process.

Hope that helps some anyway

Rod

[66gtk]

Thanks - this does help.

[HAULNSS]

Bedding rear brakes really isn't necessary, but if you want to, get the car travelling slowly and use the E-Brake with progressively stronger pull for 5 or 6 stops. That's more than enough.

Rod




Rod,
Do you have rear calipers with the parking brake integrated in them? It sounds like a unique set up that could work for other applications..... :think:

Most rear disc set ups that I've seen use drum style parking brake inside the rotor hat of the disc. I've never heard of the parking brake using the same caliper as the hydraulic system.

Hmmmm......this has me thinking.....:think:

Randy

[HELLFYR]

Yes, the E-brake utlizes the same pads as the hydraulic system.
Has been that way on many cars.

It is actually a primary cause of premature rear pad failure on several Ford models.
I had the E-Brake self adjusting mechanism get out of wack on my old Fusion and it ground the rear pads down to nothing as they were partially engaged all the time.

[HAULNSS]

Yes, the E-brake utlizes the same pads as the hydraulic system.
Has been that way on many cars.

It is actually a primary cause of premature rear pad failure on several Ford models.
I had the E-Brake self adjusting mechanism get out of wack on my old Fusion and it ground the rear pads down to nothing as they were partially engaged all the time.


Interesting. I've only seen where the parking brake is a like a drum brake set up inside the rotor hat utilizing a completely seperate system.

Learn something new everyday.

[HELLFYR]

Here's the break down of the 99-04 cobra rear brakes (same on v6 and GT models too)
Single piston rear disc.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o108/jrgoffin/sn95_rear_caliper_diagram.jpg

Maybe that will "enhance" your ideas you were having. :)